Wellies, cable knit tights & an ocean of tweed. Somewhat reminiscent of how I imagine life to be should you step into a Scottish postcard. Interestingly, upon reading Virginie Viard’s reflections on the collection I learned that the entire collection was in fact influenced by the heritage of the brand and specifically what Gabrielle Chanel would experience/see on her walks through the Scottish countryside, which allows for us to make better sense of the mishmash of colours, textures, and shapes that were thrown all in during this show.
A parade of women in boxy structures cascaded throughout the show, in a variety of contrasting colours, with a palette showcasing cheerful pinks contrasting with moody earthy tones. The collection was if anything, very Chanel and was a-typical of the brand with a heavy reliance on the quintessential tweed blazer that the brand is so renowned for.
The mismatch of tweed blazers and tights did remind me of how I would imagine a Scottish version of St Trinians to look- effortlessly cool and a little bit rebellious. This schoolgirl/masculine edge that the collection presented pays tribute to the new generation of Chanel consumers. Current Creative director, Virgine Viard, looked to the swinging sixties for inspiration, taking the age of youthquake as a main source of influence, this was not only highlighted through the turbulent mismatched garments but also through the show’s settings and a soundtrack by The Beatles.
A particular highlight of the collection for me was the accessories. As well as the classic padded shoulder bags, Chanel followed in the footsteps of Jaquemus and produced several miniature bags which were portrayed as both bags and necklaces, absolutely adorable pieces, sure to be replicated by the high street stores over the course of the next few years.
Further to this, one accessory in particular that caught my eye was the Chanel embellished necklaces that looked as if they were swiss army knives, this idea juxtaposes everything we know the brand to be. In my eyes, Chanel is a powerhouse of fashion, renowned for the curation of elegance with their Tweed suits and historical references of the little black dress. The Army knife-looking necklaces are in fact a mini comb that has been inspired by the pocket knives which could interpret the only thing a Chanel consumer could be afraid of when walking in the Scottish countryside- a bad hair day. The idea of perfect hair was one that was reintroduced by the show, with smooth voluminous blowouts and classic 60’s bobs being a firm feature of the hairstyling throughout.
To conclude this review, this younger rejuvenation of Chanel this season is one I am in full support of, it’s young and a bit risky whilst still being truthful to the heritage of the brand, in keeping with stories of Gabriele Chanel’s past and the persistent use of the classic tweed that Chanel manipulate so well. This newer, repositioning of the brand is the perfect mix of new and old and allows for a gradual redirection of consumers, befitting to the younger customers.
Wears Jenny 